National clothes of Nakhchivan: from past to modern times

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Published on Thursday, 28 September 2017 11:03

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National clothes of Nakhchivan  are valuable sources for studying the cultural history of our people. Folk costumes are more likely to reflect the national characteristics of this region. Because, the history, ethnographic and artistic features of folk creativity is reflected in Nakhchivan national costumes. It is possible to say about the ancient history of the development of national costumes on the basis of archaeological materials and various other sources found in different parts of the region.

The oldest example of Azerbaijan’s clothing culture is depicted on one of the Gobustan rocks. In the small earthenware statues of the II millennium B.C. found during archaeological excavations and on Gizilburun pitcher and so on we come across the oldest examples of Nakhchivan garments. There were two dancing figures in a geometric motif composition to a part of the empty space between the triangles on the pitcher. Human paintings are quite schematic. One of them is painted in black and the other is red. This finding proves that Nakhchivan’s clothing culture emerged and developed in ancient times as well.

One of the main supporting elements of Nakhchivan’s national costumes is the belts. One of the richest examples of medieval waistcoats, displayed on the exposition of the Nakhchivan State Historical Museum, is the metal woman’s belt. The exposition of the museum includes the medieval national women’s and men’s belts. Although ancient belts have been not discovered in Nakhchivan yet, there are many medieval belts.

The ancient garments were developed rapidly in the Middle Ages. At that time, the development of silk, knitting, weaving, jewelry and other folk arts affected the Nakhchivan clothes to become rich, high quality and colorful. The widespread proliferation of camel breeding, sheep breeding and cotton growing in Nakhchivan in the Middle Ages created the basis for the development of weaving. Thus, in the XVII-XVIII centuries Nakhchivan was one of the important centers of textile industry of Azerbaijan. There was a great demand for beautiful and high-quality cotton and printed cotton made by the skilled knitting masters of the ancient land. The oldest fabric piece in Nakhchivan was found in Kharaba Gilan, and dates back to the Middle Ages. As in the national clothes of Azerbaijan, the fabrics used in Nakhchivan’s national costumes were colored. Plants and some insects were used to paint the fragments. Mostly, apple, pomegranate, walnut, onion peels and roots of apricot and mulberry trees were used for painting. A painting of the koshenil worm, which gives a red color, is also made.

Special care and attention was paid to protecting our national and cultural heritage since the 70s of the XX century. This field was surrounded with care when national leader Heydar Aliyev came to power in Azerbaijan for the second time. Consistent measures have been taken in the autonomous republic to preserve our national and spiritual heritage and deliver them to future generations. The Chairman of the Supreme Majlis of  Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic Mr. Vasif Talibov, signed the Decree dated 7 February, 2009 “On Holding Folk days in Nakhchivan  Autonomous Republic” in order to pay attention and care to the preservation of our national values. 2012 was declared as the “Year of National Values” in Nakhchivan. Today, the rich collection of Nakhchivan national costumes is collected in the ethnographic fund of the Nakhchivan State Historical Museum. The collection of the museum includes sets and individual elements of women’s and men’s wear belonging to various historical and ethnographic zones in the XIX-XX centuries.

In Nakhchivan, a set of national women’s clothes is made up of a chapkan, a blouse, drawers, and an appropriate head cover. The cut of Nakhchivan clothes was simple and sleeves were cut straight. The cut and the sewing technology of the blouse and drawers were the same as in other zones. Only the arkhalig was differed for its form. At the sleeve of such dresses, silver and beading techniques were preferred.  Using fibrous embroidery technique, mainly floral ornamental patterns were used. Nakhchivan’s ancient women's clothes are usually dominated by red-brown, green and silver colors. Based on the sources dating to the XIX century, ethnographers said that the population was dressed according to the seasons in Nakhchivan. In the XIX century no significant changes were observed in national costumes in Nakhchivan, the culture of the middle ages continued.

The headwear of Nakhchivan’s national clothes is especially noticeable as in all regions of Azerbaijan.  Headwear in Nakhchivan is considered a symbol of zeal, chastity, good name, honor, dignity and courage. Silk kerchief, turban, nar-nazi, skull-cup, shawl, kerchief, veil and so on are the headwears distinguished for their color, beauty and diversity. One of the most widespread types of clothing was a silk kerchief. There were age and social differences in the wearing of the silk kerchiefs. The main headwear of men was the caps made from ordinary or astrakhan sheep. They had different forms and local names. Bork, mullah’s cap, skull-cap, turban were used more often.

The use of elements of our ancient national costumes in our modern dresses can be considered as important in terms of promoting our national culture.

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